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Photo by Stephen Joseph - Shell Ridge 25 |
Bob Walker, a former Board member of Save Mount Diablo and chair of the San Francisco Bay Chapter of the Sierra ‘Club, died on September 19, 1992. We found this unpublished hiking guide that he’d written in 1986 among his Morgan Territory files.
This self-guided hike is within the old boundaries of the much smaller regional preserve and a few features may have changed from Bob’s original descriptions. We’ve added bracketed notations and trail names in a few places to help keep you on the trail. Please enjoy this hike in the spirit he did, and be sensitive to the fragile areas he guides you through. You can extend your hike or plan others in the new areas of the Preserve and you might even plan your hike to end near sunset, those last "magic hours" in which he took many of his photos.
You can reach the Preserve and trail head either from 1-580 in Livermore (see the map below or the accompanying brochure entitled "Morgan Territory" for directions) or by following Ygnacio Valley Rd. east to Clayton Road, east along Marsh Creek Road and south on Morgan Territory Road, one of the county’s most scenic roads, to the Preserve parking lot.
When Bob led hikes in Morgan Territory, he always carried post paid postcards. At the top of a scenic ridge, he’d ask hike participants to write a short note to the Board of Directors, East Bay Regional Park District, P.O. B ox 5381, Oakland, CA 94605-0381, to thank them for their efforts in expanding the Preserve, and to ask them to continue funding expansion. We hope you’ll do the same. And now we’ll turn you over to Bob.
WELCOME TO ONE OF MY FAVORITE PLACES by Bob Walker
Many hikes are possible in this splendid park land; the one described below takes in the widest range of wonders, with optional side trips along the way. Allow four hours minimum, more for enjoying the sights along the way. An easier hike with much less up and down can be made by staying on the [Volvon Trail] ridge trails [ranch roads] instead of turning left at (2) to descend into the canyon.
(1) Parking Lot, Water (2) At the top of the first hill, take a left turn {Coyote Trail) just past the fence, go steeply down the hill along the fence, cross the small stream, and up to the meadow beyond.
(3) You can begin here to descend into the canyon, but don’t miss the chance to go out to viewpoint (4) for the best view of Marsh Creek Canyon. From (3) [Condor Trail], contour around the hill on one of several cow paths, turning left on a vague path just over the crest of the ridge, and continue out to the end of the ridge and the view (and a great picnic spot). Return to (3) and begin the steep descent into the canyon on cow paths that eventually resolve into one main trail that takes you the rest of the way along this glorious stream.
(5) At the point where the main fork can be seen coming down the hill from the left, a short side trip up its steep stream bed will bring you to a beautiful series of pools and cascades edged by ferns and mosses.
As you continue beyond (5), various wonders unfold—meadows dotted with old oaks, splashing side streams, and Marsh Creek itself. Stay along the stream until (6) where the trail turns right though a low gap and quickly enters wide, open meadows. There is no obvious trail continuing downstream [out of the park] from this point so don’t worry about missing the turn [You can now continue west across the road and into the new acquisitions, as well).
At (7), a group of rocks to the left of the trail, several grinding holes can be seen. Using a rock pestle, the Indians of Marsh Creek ground the abundant acorns into flour in these rounded mortars.
A long but beautiful walk up the hill along an old ranch road brings you eventually to (8), the junction with the main ridge road [Volvon Trail]. Here you can turn right to return to the parking lot and complete your loop, or continue north along the [Bob Walker] ridge to another "shouldn’t be missed" viewpoint.
Leave the road at the height of the land (9) and walk out a short distance on the path to (10), at the park’s northern boundary. From here you look out across a series of beautiful ridges toward the San Joaquin River, the Delta, and on a clear day, the snow-capped High Sierra across the vast flat Central Valley [the two parallel ridges below you were the proposed site of Marsh Canyon dump, which Bob helped defeat, and lead into the large flat Round Valley, which he helped preserve.] The canyon on the left is not Marsh Creek, but Sycamore Canyon [which remains outside the Preserve].
From (10) head back south along the [Bob Walker] ridge on roads to either side [Volvon Loop], or head overland along its windswept top for the views. After the roads rejoin, don’t miss the view from the open grassy ridge just west of the road (11). Numerous cow paths and foot trails can be followed to the mystical spots that abound along the ridge. Dotted lines roughly mark out a couple of favorites near (12).
From the open meadow where an old farm implement and picnic tables can be seen, you can pick your way though the brush to the west to the tops of the cliffs—show as a blue dotted line (13) (Prairie Falcon Trail) .Continue south along the road, bearing right at the meadow where several roads join. After passing though a gap between two hills, you enter yet another open meadow. Before heading right up the hill and back to the parking lot take a side trip to (14), where amongst the rocks there are more grinding holes than any other spot I’ve seen in the Bay Area. A splendid village site right at the headwaters divide of streams heading north and south. A ‘family-sized’ Indian cave can be found in the trees on the side of the hill at (15). A grinding hole can be found in the flat rock ‘table’ outside the overhang.
With any luck, all of this has made some kind of sense and you’ve successfully found your way back to your car. And if you’ve come under the spell of this mystical place, you’re no doubt planning a quick return. Enjoy!
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Shell Ridge - photo by Stephen Joseph |
Walnut Creek’s Urban Trails
Many citizens of the area are unaware of the wonderful system of urban trails in Contra Costa County. Throughout the county, you can walk, run, bicycle or roller blade on paved trails that provide safe, quiet and often beautiful routes that travel from city to city and from park to park. There are great views of Mount Diablo from many of them.
Because they generally follow canals, streams or railroad right-of-ways, urban trails are generally flat or slightly rolling and great for short bike rides or walks. Some of the trails are also suitable for equestrians. Walnut Creek is the central intersection where many of these trails cross.
Walnut Creek’s Ygnacio Canal Trail joins with the Contra Costa Canal Trail in a beautiful 7.88 mile loop between Shell and Lime Ridge. Newhall North is the loveliest spot on this loop, near the eastern intersection of the two trails. It’s an easy walk to some of the area’s best views and will allow you to experience the beauty of the parcel .
Park on Bayberry below the Open Space to reach Newhall. Travel north on the trail, away from Ygnacio and in less than a quarter mile a steep-sided bowl opens up, split by a fire road rising back to Ygnacio. This is Newhall North. A gate and a new interpretive sign mark the entrance.
To request a “Contra Costa County Regional Trails” map, call the East Bay Regional Park District at 635-0135.
Mt. Diablo State Park's Newest Waterfall!
Hike the New Blackhills/Sycamore Canyon Addition
Note: On Saturday, April 19th, Save Mount Diablo and Greystone Homes will officially dedicate the 252-acre Blackhills parcel to Mount Diablo State Park. That morning we'll lead public hikes from Curry Point down to the parcel for a free dedication event, titled "Complete The Canyon!" This newsletter includes additional detail elsewhere.
Trailhead: Curry Point staging area, Southgate Road Distance: 5 miles round-trip, about 950 feet elevation change Time To Go: Any time; Early Spring-the waterfall is best in early spring after rains (soils are generally sandy); Late Spring for wildflowers.
This short loop hike is wonderful! 2-3 hours round trip, it's a great introduction to the State Park's newest addition, the 252-acre Blackhills parcel. Although relatively steep, much of the route follows two tributaries of Sycamore Creek and is shaded. The variety of wildflowers and of views–from Oyster Point and various regional parks to the mountain's summit and the Sierra range–are incredible, and the hike's midpoint is near a large waterfall. You may even see rare peregrine falcons.
The route is unusual in a way; since you start the hike at the route's highest point and descend down Sycamore Creek to the lowest, you might imagine the best direction to travel would be steeply downhill (the single track Devil's Slide trail along the west branch) and back by the less steep route (Sycamore Creek/Knobcone fire roads, main branch). In fact, returning via the steeper Devil's Slide trail seems easier–the narrow trail meanders along the wooded creek, is shaded, offers one thing after another to look at (from moss covered boulders to a sulfur spring), and is quite a bit shorter than the fire road.
Start at Curry Point on Southgate Road. Exposed and windy, this staging area is often passed up by visitors. But within a quarter mile the trail begins offering incredible views, including the snow-covered Sierras, Rock City, the often fog-filled San Ramon valley, and the rocky Knobcone and Oyster Point areas. The trail soon drops down into the protected Sycamore Creek canyon, which is almost immediately visible as a steep V-shaped cut in the Blackhills to your right. The Blackhills addition is at the bottom of the V.
Follow the Knobcone Point fire road along the grassland ridgeline (yellow grass pansies and buttercups in spring, coyote orchestras on summer evenings), stay to the right, passing Curry Canyon. You'll soon pass the Devil's Slide single track trail (0.6 miles), cutting off to the right, which you'll return on. Follow the fire road into the oak woodland, to the junction with the Blackhawk fire road (1.0 mile) and right along it down through knobcone pine woodland. In the canyon, you'll hit your fourth major plant community–chaparral. A small burn from Fall 1996 should support many wildflowers this spring. Small mariposa lilies bloom at trail side, followed by hanging yellow Mt. Diablo globe lilies. The globe lily and the Diablo manzanita (red-trunked, grayish leaves attached directly to branches without stems), also found along the trail, are both found only on Mt. Diablo. You'll soon reach a fifth plant community, the creek's riparian woodland, with moss-covered rocks, namesake sycamores and big leaf maples (1.9 miles).
The trail splits three ways–sharply right and downstream toward Devil's Slide and the Blackhills parcel, left to a dead end, or less sharply right and steeply up slope toward Oyster Point. Continue downstream, past the junction with the Devil's Slide trail (2.3 miles) that you'll take on the way back. In spring there are often trilliums along this part of the trail–a relatively rare, low-growing, three-leafed, bulb plant with red or pink flowers. The old fence marks the former boundary between the State Park and the Blackhills parcel. The fence may still be up; you can cross it, and continue on to the edge of development below.
Save Mount Diablo negotiated the compromise which allowed the owners of the 300 acre Blackhills parcel to construct homes on 24 acres while donating most of the rest, 252 acres, to Mount Diablo State Park, at no cost to the public. The dedication includes most of the big bowl, bounded by grassy hills and the rocky chaparral of the Blackhills, draining into the creek after it passes through the V-shaped break in the ridge.
As you continue down the trail, many small drainages add to the size of Sycamore creek. It gets more steep and jumbled with boulders–among alders, sycamores, willows and maples–then broadens out and crosses big shelves of rock. The sounds of the rushing creek are joined by the pungent smells of the chaparral and other wildflowers on the slopes above-black sage, chamise, monkey flowers. You might see the big yellow Mt. Diablo sunflower or the brightly striped yellow and black Alameda whipsnake, two rare species whose presence helped preserve the parcel. You'll pass near steep Devil's Slide, an inclined tower of exposed rock strata, and a large balancing rock shaped like a turtle's head. Look up often at the rocky Blackhills; at the ridgeline you might see the small, very fast peregrine falcons that nest nearby. Several of them were part of Save Mount Diablo's original re-introductions from 1989-1993.
You may notice the flat flood plain of a sediment filled check dam; at present the old water tanks it filled are still located just below. They're your signal that you're approaching a beautiful waterfall. A hundred feet below the tanks, a narrow trail cuts off down into the stream. Walk carefully to avoid damaging the fragile riparian area while you view the broad falls. They're most impressive after heavy rains.
A short distance further downstream, the canyon ends and private property starts (3.0 miles). Retrace your steps up the canyon and, where it flattens out, go left on the Devil's Slide trail (3.7 miles). The trail follows the west branch of the creek, which drains from Rock City, and threads through miner's lettuce and woodland. It crosses the beautiful creek several times; there are easy stepping stones most of the time, and you'll be easily distracted from the climb by the moss and fern covered boulders. Just before the 3rd creek crossing, you'll begin to notice the smell from a sulfur spring. Cross the creek and head right up the trail; it will soon leave the woodland, then skirt its edge before climbing through a grassland bowl back to the fire road. May and June usually provide incredible stands of yellow, and white, mariposa lilies. At the top of the hill, go left on the Knobcone Point fire road (4.4 miles); you're almost back to Curry Point (5.0 miles).
A Sunday Drive
East County's Threatened Open Space
SMD attempts to preserve and connect open space on and around Mount Diablo. Land in the rural areas east of Mount Diablo is among the most spectacular and reasonably priced in the county, but East County development is spurring fragmentation and speculation in the areas near the mountain. More than 10,000 acres are proposed for development in East County. Antioch, the county's third largest city, included 70,000 residents in 1993, and is expected to include 121,000 in the year 2010, hot on the heels of Concord for first place. Brentwood and Pittsburg are following suit. Take the drive below and you'll see what we mean. Our tour starts at the Ygnacio-Clayton Rd. intersection in Concord, follows Kirker Pass to Hwy 4, east on Antioch's Lone Tree Way, south on Deer Valley, and west on Marsh Creek Rd. back to Ygnacio. We include odometer mileage's, zero the odometer at each major road change (0.0), and include detours and hike/picnic spots. Take a pen and paper and write two short notes (addresses below) while you're at it.
Ygnacio/Clayton Rd./Kirker Pass
0.0 Head northeast on Kirker Pass toward Pittsburg. You'll enter Pittsburg's proposed 2,745 acre Southeast Area annexation (3.3), which would stretch south almost to Clayton.
4.1 At Nortonville Rd. take a short detour to the locked gate (4.5) to view the northern part of the proposed annexation and Black Diamond Mines Regional Park, the tree covered ridge in front of you. The road continues to Nortonville, the park's abandoned coal mining town, near the northern most stand of Coulter Pines in California and across the ridge to Clayton. The steep hills and the narrow creek flood plain will be graded if this area is developed. Return to Kirker Pass Rd. and go right (5.0) to the Pittsburg City limits (5.6) and Hwy 4 (7.4) east.
Railroad Ave./Highway 4
0.0 You'll have good views of Black Diamond Mines with Mt. Diablo beyond as you pass the Somersville Rd. exit (2.9), a good detour into Black Diamond Mines. Somersville, another of the park's coal mining towns, is at the southern terminus of the road. Exit south (4.6) on Lone Tree Way/"A" St. in Antioch.
Highway 4/Lone Tree Way
0.0 As you start south on Lone Tree, the State Park's North Peak will be briefly visible ahead. Turn right (3.2) onto Deer Valley Rd. and head south.
Lone Tree Way/Deer Valley Rd.
0.0 Deer Valley crosses beautiful open countryside with views stretching from Morgan Territory to Mt. Diablo. Much of the area has already been approved for development. Antioch has approved 17,000 units since 1990, of which 10,000 have not yet been built, and has begun work on two additional areas. At Prewitt Ranch Rd. (0.6) you'll enter into Future Urbanization Area #1, a recent annexation of 2700 acres stretching to the city limits (1.9). 6,000 homes have been proposed, stretching all the way to Brentwood.
2.7 A large depression just to the left (east) of the road is a vernal pool. Spring runoff collects there, supporting unusual wildflowers. You'll notice the many "For Sale" signs, a sign of the speculation that is rampant in the area. The highest, heavily wooded ridge before you (4.9) is Morgan Territory Regional Preserve. Before reaching Marsh Creek Rd., you'll pass over the westernmost corner (6.2) of the Cowell Ranch, where more than 5,000 units are proposed. The flip side is that several thousand acres could be preserved. At Marsh Creek Road (6.8), take a brief detour east (left).
Deer Valley Rd./Marsh Creek Rd.
0.0 Head east (left) on one of the nicest scenic routes in the county. Marsh Creek, still flowing in July, follows the road, crossing big sandstone slabs and supporting beautiful riparian vegetation–white trunked sycamores, buckeyes, and willows.
1.7 Carefully turn around at the gate past the red barn. Framed with citrus trees, the gate marks a 10 acre field leased to the EBRPD by the Cowell Foundation. Not yet open to the public, the field will be the parking area and trailhead for Round Valley Regional Park. Retrace your route and continue west on Marsh Creek Rd. On the north (right) side of the road you'll pass the huge chaparral dominated canyon of Clayton Ranch (9.6), stretching a mile west to Morgan Territory Rd. and two miles north.
10.2 At Morgan Territory Rd. you can detour south on an even more beautiful route; SMD's first acquisition (now part of the state park) starts at this point on the south (left) side of the road with the scar of an old mercury mine above. You can enter the park at the Three Springs gate on the left (11.0). SMD's Chaparral Spring parcel, which can be visited during walks led by SMD, is on the right (north); it shares a fence with Clayton Ranch and continues to the high tension power lines (11.2).
11.6 Closer to Clayton, the State Park boundary recedes south, and you enter Clayton's Marsh Creek Specific Plan Area (12.0). Views open up to Mt. Zion with its large quarry scars. More than 30 units have already been proposed on the left (12.2), and another 90 on the Heartland parcel to the right (12.8). Eagle Peak, Mitchell Canyon and Black Point become visible to the left of Mt. Zion. If you drive to the end of Regency Drive (13.2) you can hike or picnic in Donner or Back Canyons.
13.6 Continue straight on Clayton Rd. when Marsh Creek turns left. You can detour right (14.2) on Peacock Creek into the last phase of the Oakhurst development. Park at the staging area on the right (14.3) and walk up Black Diamond Way, following a creek up to Black Diamond Mines and incredible views of the Delta. Complete the tour at Ygnacio Valley Road (16.1).
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